How we button-up New York rooftops so they look good now-and wake up strong in spring.
“By failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail.” -Benjamin Franklin
Rooftop landscapes are tough, elegant spaces-sun-baked in August, wind-scoured in January.
As the days shorten, native plants (trees and perennials) put on a colorful display in fall, then enter a period of natural dormancy. Moving sugars and nutrients acquired through photosynthesis during the warmer months from their leaves to their roots for storage until the energy is used again in the following Spring. The leaves dry out and fall off, protecting the plant from water loss and freeing up nutrients that return to the soil.
Below is the exact playbook our team follows each late fall across the city.
1) Plants: tuck them in, don’t tidy them to death
Prune woody species at year’s end.
Trees and shrubs on rooftops grow in a fraction of the soil they’d enjoy at ground level. We do structural pruning on deciduous and evergreen woody plants at the end of the season to reduce wind sail and remove crossing or weak wood. This isn’t a haircut; it’s functional and architectural-aimed at healthier, safer plants next year.
Protect young trees with burlap at the base.
First- and second-year trees are vulnerable. We loosely wrap secured burlap around the lower trunk to limit any dieback. On very exposed penthouse gardens, it shields without smothering - especially where wind funnels between buildings.
Defend sensitive evergreens from winter burn.
Boxwoods, hollies, and other broadleaf evergreens lose moisture all winter. On exposed terraces we either treat with an anti-desiccant (apply on a dry day above ~40°F/4°C) or wrap with burlap to reduce transpiration and wind scorch.
Mulch to prevent frost heave—then resist over-cleaning.
Add a fresh 2–3" layer of mulch to planters to insulate roots and prevent frost heave (that freeze–thaw yo-yo that can jack plants out of the soil) the first couple years. In successive years after installation we use less and here’s the counter-intuitive part we’ve validated on many Manhattan rooftops: leave dried perennial stalks and leaf detritus in the planters. This catches snow (nature’s blanket), feeds the soil as it breaks down, and provides nesting material for overwintering birds come spring.
2) Irrigation, water & utilities: purge, drain, and double-check
Winterize irrigation—inside and out.
Shut off every interior valve feeding exterior hose bibs or drip zones.
Open exterior points to relieve pressure.
Use pressurized air to blow out drip lines and manifolds until they run dry. (Trapped water expands when it freezes; copper, plastic, and fittings don’t forgive.)
Drain anything with a water line.
Outdoor refrigerators, icemakers, sinks, and fountains must be drained and winterized per manufacturer guidance. For fountains, we remove pumps, store them indoors, and cover the basin so it doesn’t act like a frozen birdbath that cracks in February.
Clean drains and gutters at end of season.
We lift grates, clear leaves and gravel.
3) Wind: plan for January, not October
Rooftops are wind theaters. Newly planted evergreens are particularly at risk.
Stabilize evergreens with discreet guying.
Where we expect strong winter winds, we secure recently planted evergreens with low-stretch line to stainless or coated anchors, checking that the root ball is firm and ties don’t abrade bark. It’s temporary, unobtrusive, and it saves trees.
Remove anything that can go airborne.
Before our last fall visit we do a “wind walk.” We remove from the terrace any loose items-decor, small planters, lanterns, toys-that are susceptible to uplift. If you’d be unhappy seeing it three roofs over, bring it inside.
Secure furniture.
Furniture needs to be tied down, grouped, or covered with properly strapped covers. We add weights or hidden ties for light pieces. Cushions go indoors; covers shouldn’t billow like sails.
4) Surfaces, safety & access: think freeze–thaw
Check paver stability and pedestal heights. Uneven pavers collect ice. We re-level any trip points now, not during the first snow.
Confirm door thresholds and flashing are clear. Winter storms drive water sideways; clear debris so water can’t wick under thresholds.
Label shutoffs and store tools. We tag main valves, coil hoses, and make sure you know where the irrigation and fountain components are stored.
Your end-of-season checklist
Prune/cut back woody species (trees & shrubs) at end of year to reduce wind sail and improve structure.
Protect young trees-wrap burlap at the base
Treat boxwoods, hollies, and other susceptible shrubs with an anti-desiccant or wrap with burlap to prevent winter burn.
Mulch planters (2–3") to insulate roots and prevent frost heave. Leave dried stalks and detritus for birds and soil health.
Winterize irrigation-shut off interior feeds, open exterior points, and use pressurized air to drain drip lines.
Winterize & drain outdoor refrigerators and fountains; remove and store pumps.
Stabilize recently planted evergreens with a guy wire system where winds are strong.
Secure furniture-tie down, group, cover; store cushions.
Clean drains and gutters; test water flow through scuppers.
Remove loose items that are susceptible to wind uplift.
When we do it (NYC timing)
We typically schedule winter prep after fall color peaks and before sustained freezes, which in New York means sometime in November. Anti-desiccants go on during a dry stretch above ~40°F/4°C. Irrigation blow-outs happen before we expect the first hard freeze.
Warm roots, clear drains, calm winds-that’s the recipe.
